The mixer didn’t strain while making cookies, but the bake was slightly uneven, as was the distribution of mix-ins.
#HAND MIXER WITH WHISK FULL#
The Cuisinart also whipped up voluminous seven-minute frosting (again with its beaters), yielding the full quart that the recipe promised in under seven minutes. The Cuisinart’s single whisk, in contrast, was weak and ineffective. This model’s beaters didn’t aerate a genoise as well as the Breville’s two whisks, however, which created the tallest and most even-crumbed cake of any we made. When baked, the sponge cake was lofty, with a more even crumb and far fewer large air pockets than the KitchenAid or VonShef cakes. With its beater attachments, the Cuisinart aerated eggs for genoise faster than even the Breville’s beaters, doing it in about seven minutes-two to three minutes faster than the competition. None of the other mixers we tested had these features, and though they’re definitely a bonus, I didn’t think they were a gimmick-they made the baking process easier overall. The mixer also has a light at the bottom of the machine that shines into the bowl, which I used to check if the sponge cake batter had turned the pale, glossy yellow I was looking for. Even though there’s nothing wrong with pressing a button, the scrolling felt easy and familiar (and made me nostalgic for pre-Apple days). You can seamlessly transition between nine speeds with a scroll wheel, similar to on an old-school computer mouse. The timer also has a pause button, so you can stop mixing, add ingredients or scrape down your bowl, and then resume immediately without having to speed up again.
A screen with a built-in timer helps keep track for time-sensitive recipes, which I found especially useful when making seven-minute frosting.
With its clever extra features, the Breville was by far the easiest and most enjoyable mixer to use of any we tested. After whipping eggs and sugar for the requisite seven minutes, the Handy Mix produced just under a quart of seven-minute frosting-slightly less than the Cuisinart- but it was still fluffy, spreadable, and delicious. The Breville’s dough hook was even able to mix pizza dough pretty well, whacking it around to create a single ball, whereas the VonShef and the KitchenAid created stringier doughs that we had to take out of the bowl and shape on the counter. It was also one of the loftiest, unlike the VonShef’s cake, which sunk in the middle and at the sides. The sponge cake it produced had an even crumb, a delicate texture, and the least air bubbles of any we baked. Each baked cookie was well-mixed with an even distribution of the good, chunky morsels we wanted in every bite-chewy raisins, chopped walnuts, chocolate chips, and flakes of coconut. It was powerful enough to blend the thick cookie dough without straining, and its coated beaters helped keep all of the ingredients from climbing up the sides of the bowl. The Breville excelled in all of our tests. And we paid attention to how comfortable each mixer was to hold, if it overheated or strained, how it worked around the bowl, and how easy the attachments were to clean and store. We were able to eliminate a few mixers, but made seven-minute frosting with the finalists to see how well they whipped air into meringue, measuring the volume yield of the frosting (the more frosting, the more aeration). Then, we beat half a cup of cream, followed by one egg white to see how well mixers whipped small amounts. We looked for cakes with an even crumb, high dome, and few air pockets (a sign the eggs had not been fully whipped) cookies that were evenly mixed and didn’t spread and pizza dough that had been worked into a uniform, springy ball. Then, we made kitchen sink cookies to see how the mixers coped with lots of resistance and mix-ins, and made pizza dough to see how well each model could knead heavy doughs. We started by making a sponge cake to test how well each mixer could aerate a batter that gets all of its loft from whipped eggs.
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